Despite the elevation (over 12000 feet), the fresh mountain air compared to polluted Delhi was as refreshing as the dip I took in a freezing fresh mountain river.
The trip started at midnight in Jaipur, Rajasthan, when John and I boarded a night train headed for Delhi. When we arrived, we took an auto rickshaw to Luke's place and began our plans for the day. We had until midnight to pack and buy supplies, including a propane stove, packed food, gear (including my new "forester" swiss army knife!), and a rental tent. We embarked the 32 hour train with 6 loaves of chocolate banana bread from a bakery owned by Luke's friend. The train was filled to the max, but emptied around noon the next day at a popular station in Bihar- it's capital, Patna. Left on the train were mostly those headed to the north-eastern state of Assam. These people were incredibly nice, and we shared a compartment with a family of 5. When we got to New Jalpaiguri, we ate a quick meal, and took a shared rickshaw to Siliguri and a shared Jeep to Darjeeling, a hill station that used to be the summer home of the British when Koklata got too hot (ironically, I am presently in Kolkata in the hottest time of year- it reached 47 degrees Celsius the other day). We ate momos for lunch (a tibetan pirogi) and got another shared jeep to Manebanjan. We booked a shirpa (guide) at the tourist station who was to meet us the next morning, so we set up tent on a plateau and gave our virgin propane stove it's first job- soup!
We trekked for 6 days, covering 87 kilometres, and raising to around 3800 metres at the highest point. The views in the third and fourth day were the most spectacular, we could clearly see Everest, Makulu, Lahotse, Kachenjunga (India's highest, 3rd in the world), and many others. It's called the 'sleeping Buddha' because when viewed from Sankadphu and Phalut (where we saw it), it looks like a big belly, where the one to the left looks like a face (with a nose and chin protruding) and to the right are feet (I guess you have to see it). The views were spectacular, and it felt pretty hardcore to carry 60 pounds on our backs and sleep in a tent. One morning, we awoke to frost on the fly- proof of the cold nights!
Our guide, 'Tsering Shirpa', was a hero. At 38, he is an extremely experienced guide who knows the passes inside and out. Everytime there was a leaking hose on the side of the road, he would do a quick repair- probably saving a lower town from water availability issues. Since we were sleeping in a tent, we had freedom to stay wherever we wanted, so Tsering would bring us to his relatives, who treated us to chapati and Yak meat! Sooo good! Honestly, we spent more time in Nepal than India on this trek (named the Singalila trek) because the main road acts as the border, and we spent most nights the Nepal side. If you get queasy, please skip the next section.
We wanted to eat a chicken for dinner, so every day we would ask Tsering "can we buy a chicken in this town?", which he would answer 'no' until we reached Gorkey on the second last day. A local woman caught a chicken from a small coop, and brought it to us. Because I bought a new swiss army knife (the "forester") and I was dying to use it (no pun intended), they offered the chicken to me to cut its throat. After cutting it (and it did take some sawing force action) it bled a fair bit, and it kicked for a few minutes. An old man was holding on to it, but I can see without a doubt where the phrase came from ("running like a chicken with its head cut off"). We proceeded to make the best chicken noodle soup I have ever had, and a stirfry to top it off. The village cat was happy with the leftovers.
We had a few days in Darjeeling where we saw the zoo (red pandas, himalayan black bears, tigers, snow leapoards, and deer) and the himalayan mountaineering institute. The cuisine in Darjeeling was tibetan and delicious- momos and tibentan bread! We listened to a live band playing covers of random western hits, and then said goodbye to Luke the next morning. John and I saw our first bollywood film in theatres (race) and did a lot of running around. World famous Darjeeling tea, great local novels, and a traditional Gorkey military knife were some of the purchases made.
Life changed as quickly as the weather when we dropped from Darjeeling to Kolkata, but I'll elaborate on that next.
Friday, April 25, 2008
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
Exams, a tiger, and Delhi
I know it has been forever, and I apologize! I left off in Jaisalmer Fort, which was guided by an audio tour that was really well done. Apparently, there has been more rain in Rajasthan in recent years, and Jaisalmer has been thought to be in danger of structural damage due to too much water! We took a train to Jodpur after that, which consisted of a neat section lined with blue colored houses that could be seen grandly from the Jodpur Fort. This fort was similar to Jaisalmer's fort except that it seemed to have higher and stronger walls, though it is no longer a "living fort"- the townspeople live around the fort. To be honest, after the fort tour, a few of us took pleasure in staying in the hotel and ordering room service while watching movies on cable. It was a much needed dose of home, and we ended the night by dancing in a really cool bar that felt like a cottage. There was even a DJ just for us, and some serious lighting including strobe lights and black lights!
That weekend, I headed for India's capital- Delhi! Tom and John came too to visit my friends Luke and Brent who have a flat in the south end. We visited some crazy markets, one underground that sold some random things including liquor flasks and binoculars. There was also the Government Cottage Industries Emporium, where traditional goods of the country are sold at fixed, fair prices where the proceeds go to the small manufacturers themselves. Literally, almost every ware in India was within those 5 floors! We also enjoyed the dirty bird (KFC) and Mickedees a few times. There was a Tibetan rally one day where about 150 tibetans roared in the streets against China's inexcusable actions and merciless killings. My friend Luke hangs out with street kids sometimes, so we spent one afternoon playing games with them in a park and utilizing coloring books. Tom and John and i bought some stogies and took some pics near India Gate, which was WAY bigger than I thought it was. Along the way, a man with two monkeys on leashes let us take our picture with them for a fee. India Gate is a unique experience because it is surrounded by a huge park of grass and trees where Indian families come in droves to spend the evening together. It definitely felt more like a place and symbol of pride for locals than a tourist destination, which I liked. By far the most impressive part of Delhi was the subway (metro) system! It is brand new, and it so pristine. Funded 60% by a Japanese bank, they will continue construction for about 3 years, and it will link all of Delhi gloriously. Honestly (probably due to it's newness) it trumps Toronto's subway by far.
Studying continued for a week, and then John and Katie and I went in search of the elusive tiger on a safari in Ranthambore! We met a German couple in our hotel, and early one morning, we stood in a line to book an open-topped jeep to enter the park. After about 1.5 hours of craziness at 4 in the morning, we were off! I picked our route from a bag, and we sped off in a park that felt like a slightly dryer version of Jurassic Park. The animals we first saw were some spotted deer and long-tailed monkeys. Then there were many birds, but I can't name them. We kept listening to warning calls from other animals that would give away the position of the tigers, and at one point, about 100 spotted deer ran out from a bush, so we thought for sure a tigress was out for an early morning kill! However, after 10 minutes and no tiger, we were getting discouraged that we wouldn't see it. The park is strict about sticking with the route you choose (there are around 10), but our guide knew that the tiger was just one track over! So he talked with some other guides, and asked us if we were willing to pay a bit extra to keep some mouths quiet, if we wanted to see the tiger. Morals aside, we REALLY wanted to see it, so we agreed, and the next 3 minutes went by ridiculously fast. Our driver sped through the adjacent track like a rally racer until we arrived at a spot where 5 other jeeps were parked and silent. I caught a glimpse from the side (and a few photos!) of a slowly meandering beast with magnificent orange and black stripes. Within moments, we were racing out of there, and out of the park. So exhilarating! Within the little town that Ranthambore was in (about 3 hours south of Jaipur by train) there was an incredible local restaurant that sold masala dosas and delicious sweets that was satisfying to the taste buds, stomach, and wallet, and we couldn't ask for anything else.
Exams were intense, and were over fast. The final party/get-together was at an outdoor restaurant with all our host families and teachers. It was an odd and abrupt way to say goodbye to our friends of 4 months. Everyone dressed up so well (except the guys... figures) and red wine filled our palates. Thus ended our India Semester. Some have gone home to Canada, but most are still traveling in India, Europe, Thailand, Nepal, and others.
I will tell of an unforgettable week in the Himalayas next...
That weekend, I headed for India's capital- Delhi! Tom and John came too to visit my friends Luke and Brent who have a flat in the south end. We visited some crazy markets, one underground that sold some random things including liquor flasks and binoculars. There was also the Government Cottage Industries Emporium, where traditional goods of the country are sold at fixed, fair prices where the proceeds go to the small manufacturers themselves. Literally, almost every ware in India was within those 5 floors! We also enjoyed the dirty bird (KFC) and Mickedees a few times. There was a Tibetan rally one day where about 150 tibetans roared in the streets against China's inexcusable actions and merciless killings. My friend Luke hangs out with street kids sometimes, so we spent one afternoon playing games with them in a park and utilizing coloring books. Tom and John and i bought some stogies and took some pics near India Gate, which was WAY bigger than I thought it was. Along the way, a man with two monkeys on leashes let us take our picture with them for a fee. India Gate is a unique experience because it is surrounded by a huge park of grass and trees where Indian families come in droves to spend the evening together. It definitely felt more like a place and symbol of pride for locals than a tourist destination, which I liked. By far the most impressive part of Delhi was the subway (metro) system! It is brand new, and it so pristine. Funded 60% by a Japanese bank, they will continue construction for about 3 years, and it will link all of Delhi gloriously. Honestly (probably due to it's newness) it trumps Toronto's subway by far.
Studying continued for a week, and then John and Katie and I went in search of the elusive tiger on a safari in Ranthambore! We met a German couple in our hotel, and early one morning, we stood in a line to book an open-topped jeep to enter the park. After about 1.5 hours of craziness at 4 in the morning, we were off! I picked our route from a bag, and we sped off in a park that felt like a slightly dryer version of Jurassic Park. The animals we first saw were some spotted deer and long-tailed monkeys. Then there were many birds, but I can't name them. We kept listening to warning calls from other animals that would give away the position of the tigers, and at one point, about 100 spotted deer ran out from a bush, so we thought for sure a tigress was out for an early morning kill! However, after 10 minutes and no tiger, we were getting discouraged that we wouldn't see it. The park is strict about sticking with the route you choose (there are around 10), but our guide knew that the tiger was just one track over! So he talked with some other guides, and asked us if we were willing to pay a bit extra to keep some mouths quiet, if we wanted to see the tiger. Morals aside, we REALLY wanted to see it, so we agreed, and the next 3 minutes went by ridiculously fast. Our driver sped through the adjacent track like a rally racer until we arrived at a spot where 5 other jeeps were parked and silent. I caught a glimpse from the side (and a few photos!) of a slowly meandering beast with magnificent orange and black stripes. Within moments, we were racing out of there, and out of the park. So exhilarating! Within the little town that Ranthambore was in (about 3 hours south of Jaipur by train) there was an incredible local restaurant that sold masala dosas and delicious sweets that was satisfying to the taste buds, stomach, and wallet, and we couldn't ask for anything else.
Exams were intense, and were over fast. The final party/get-together was at an outdoor restaurant with all our host families and teachers. It was an odd and abrupt way to say goodbye to our friends of 4 months. Everyone dressed up so well (except the guys... figures) and red wine filled our palates. Thus ended our India Semester. Some have gone home to Canada, but most are still traveling in India, Europe, Thailand, Nepal, and others.
I will tell of an unforgettable week in the Himalayas next...
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