Limuru- my introduction to Kenya

It's cold in Limuru. I didn't expect it, and nobody told me, so I packed light and caught the flu after 5 days. It's okay, I'm sleeping it off and pumping myself with lemon ginger tea and vitamin C pills. I'm currently staying at the International Livestock Research Institute (ILRI), a posh complex on the west side of Nairobi. I have a beautiful room all to myself, equipped with everything a hotel room could offer plus a small kitchen, and a couch. Yes, a complete contrast from India has taken place, but it will only last a few days. I start researching tomorrow here at the institute, and in a few days I believe we head off to Kisumu, the city on Lake Victoria!

The first thought I had of Kenya in the airport taxi was that it must be the most fertile land I have ever seen! It is a nature-lover's paradise with large, bold flowers, a wide variety of lush greenery, tall healthy trees everywhere, and hundreds of different colorful birds. I am told that the Rift Valley (Western Kenya) puts what I've seen to shame. I can't wait!

I just spent the last 5 days in Limuru volunteering for "The Nest Home", a place where children live whose fathers have left them and mothers are in prison for petty crimes committed in order to survive. I first took a taxi to the half-way house (ironically half way between Nairobi and Limuru!), a place for the mothers after they are released from prison. They also take care of all the babies under 1 year old. There was a 7-day old baby who was also born 1-2 months prematurely who had an eye infection, manifested by yellow liquid coming from her left eye. I carried her - the tiniest baby I had ever seen - as Raymond (the driver) took us to a hospital where an Indian doctor looked after her. I wanted to speak of India with him but he hadn't been there for years. He prescribed some medicines and we returned satisfied. (I asked as I left today how she was, and the infection is gone, praise the Lord!)

I took a matatu (public 15-seater van, the local travel norm) ride to Limuru, situated about 30 minutes north of Nairobi. When I arrived, I was greeted emphatically by 70 children from the ages of 1 to 17. I spent most of my time hanging out with them, playing with them, and supervising them. Their eyes are so beautiful, bulging like the precious moments figurines except in place of the sickly pale skin, these children have gleaming black skintones. I also got to know the maintenance man, John, as I helped him with various projects around the yard like installing windows and cleaning and rearranging a shed. He invited me to his family home for dinner two nights ago- chapati and potato curry! It didn't taste like Indian food, but it was delicious.

I got to meet a German named Lucas who I shared a room with. He is doing the same thing at the Nest Home that I was, but for many months. He and I checked out the town of Limuru, and it reminded me of the towns in Niger, but a bit more well-off. They had cafes, internet joints, butchers, and outdoor fruit sellers. Nobody really called out to us to buy something like I would expect anywhere in India, which took some getting used to (I kept thinking,'when is someone going to harass me to buy something?'). Instead of rickshaws everywhere, there were only matatus driving by and a whole bunch of guys with motorbikes willing to rent out rides.
I fell sick with the flu on the last day, probably because a few of the children had it and sickness travels fast in dense populations. I really am enjoying ILRI though, and these next few days should be relaxing. I'm actually excited to begin working again! Weird!

By the way, were you wondering why Kenyans always win olympic races like the steeplechase? In Nairobi, the elevation is around 1600 metres from sea level, and in Limuru, it was over 2000. Also, most of the land within the triangle between Nairobi, Kisumu (Lake victoria) and Tanzania (to the south) is over 3000 metres in elevation. To put it in perspective, Toronto is around 100 metres, and Vancouver is only 2. I think we know who to cheer for!